Baghdad was one of the most modern cities in the Middle East
late 70”s and 80’s with lot of infrastructure projects taking place with the
advent of increase in petrol price in the world as Iraq was the largest
exporter of oil then. It is in one of the infrastructure project for Amanat Al
Asima (Municipality of Baghdad) which was building of 2000 housing units and
service buildings that was awarded to an Indian company called Makers
Development Services Pvt Ltd. I had
joined the company as a Junior Engineer Electrical and was among the first few
engineers who had left India in first week of April 1981 to set up the
mobilization works on the ground. Those days on account of the war with Iran
there were no direct flights hence had to land at Kuwait city and then proceed
by land and you can read about it in my earlier post Carnivores-brahmin.
First few months we were busy with setting up of the camp,
setting up prefab factory and other support building for the project and were
getting ourselves ready to start the construction phase and during the second month beginning we had an
Israeli Air raid on Baghdad and you can read that in another post Reminiscing of times at Baghdad. We used to
venture out to local market at Al Baaya or go to a theatre there to watch Hindi
movies at time (Hindi movies were quite popular among Iraqis) or to the Mall at
Al Mansur in the evenings after working hours. Weekends 7-10 of us would pile
on to a vehicle and drive down the country side or go to a lake called Razaza
and you can read about it in my post Old Memories of Times in Iraq.
Till about 8 months into stay at Baghdad we had never
ventured out in the night seeking the fabled nightlife of the city but arrival
of a new engineer whose father was in Indian High Commission Baghdad changed it
for he was aware of the hot spots of the city . We started going to night clubs
and used to have fun with scores of dancers on the floor and female companions to
give you company on your table…. What more did we young guys need then :P .One
nightclub stood out those day and it was known as Moulin Rouge… yes the same
name as the one in Paris but not a franchise and here they used to have similar
can-can dance on the stage. This club used to charge us Iraqi Dinar 2 for entry
and on table would give us a roasted chicken and a can of beer free. Scores of beautiful
girls (Various nationalities..Ceylonese, Egyptians, Lebanese) would line up
along the bar or on the sides and you could call them to your table for a drink.
A drink that costs you 1dinar would be charged 10 dinar for the girls drink and
she would not stay long on the table when she finishes her drink. This was
first time we had been there and we never knew the cost of having those girls
on the table and we all 7 freaked out there and finally we had to pay a hefty
bill in the process. Next time onwards we were pretty judicious with our
calling out for these bar girls.
Tried to get to know more about this nightclub on Google but no
hits regarding various nightclubs of Baghdad of 1980’s at all except for
passing statements that the city was renowned for the nightlife until 1994 when
Saddam Hussein shut down all bars and nightclubs. There were few other
nightclubs but their names have faded in my memories and am unable to recall
them. I believe the nightclubs have opened up once again in Iraq but not much action in Baghdad because of moral policing however up north at Erbil the bars are flourishing without any fear of ISIS or moral policing.
PS: Most of what has been written are my personal experiences during my stay in the country from 1981 to 1983 and at that point of time the rule was we needed to spend 30% of our salary within Iraq and being flush with money during the war times was great. We have had great times as a group there and i always tell my relatives that my assignment there was just like my stay at engineering college... a carefree life it was. Hope you all enjoyed my recount. Thanks for passing by.
I worked in Baghdad for Ericsson telecommunications 1983/4 and lived in the Mansour district
ReplyDeleteWell remember the Mulon Rouge!
I was a member of the Alwiya club.
Shame what happened to the country as I enjoyed there.
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